Namibia (18 Days): Khaudum - Etosha - Messum - Swakopmund -Sossousvlei

Day 1

Departing: Cape Town

Destination: Noordoewer.

Distance: 681 km

Border crossing: Vioolsdrift (RSA) Noordoewer (Namibia) 24 hours open

Do note that currently you are not allowed to take any meat or dairy products across the border.

Accomodation:

We stayed over at Noordoewer Self-catering Chalets. We can recommend it. Our aim was to cross the border and then stay over on the Namibian side.  

If you prefer to rather cross the border first thing in the morning there are a couple of places on the banks of the Orange River.  We can advise Grocery, Vioolsdrift River Rafting Lodge or Vioolsdrift Lodge.

Filling stations

Every town between Cape Town and the border has a garage where you can fill up. There are several nice farm stalls or eateries where you can have a bite to eat.

Day 2

Departing: Noordoewer

Destination: Marienthal.

Distance: 540km

Attractions:

We took the C12 and on the B4 to Keetmanshoop. The C12 is a gravel road.

We stopped at the Holoog station and visited a couple of old graves next to the road. Do stop at the limestone ovens. These ovens were used to burn limestone which was then used to manufacture cement.

The Canyon Farmyard is a great place to take a break and enjoy some apple tart. The owners are friendly and feels like visiting family.

En route we visited Naute Kristall for Gin tasting. This is a great place to buy something refreshing to enjoy next to your fire at night.

We also drove pass the Naute Dam, this is one of the bigger dams in Namibia.

Accommodation: Marienthal River chalets offer camping with private ablutions. It is right next to the main road. There is a lot to do for the kids. They can enjoy the small petting farm and play in the playground.

The restaurant on the premises offers good meals and milkshakes.

Stock up: Just before you turn off on the C12 you can stop at Die Vleisstal and buy meat for the trip. You can even pre-order it and they will vacuum pack it and you can just pick it up. Die Vleisstal is the butchery at Namgate, just south of Grunau. The meat is very good. Marienthal has a couple of good chain stores where you can stock up on supplies for the trip.

Day 3 & 4

Departing:  Marienthal to Windhoek.

Destination: Windhoek

Distance: 268km

Accommodation: We always stay at Arebusch. Arebusch offers a whole array of accommodation and there is something to suit everybody. They have self-catering chalets, rooms, Villas and camping sites. On the premises is a great restaurant and all the other services you can expect from a reputable lodge. The pool is very inviting and offers a great place to relax in the Namibian heat. The breakfast buffet is great, I can advise it.

Attractions: Outside of Marienthal we stopped at Hardapdam, another big dam in Namibia. We had breakfast at the restaurant. The restaurant offers beautiful views of the dam. You will pay an entrance fee to enter the park area.

There is a lot of things to do in Windhoek. The Christuskirche in the centre of town is famous and you will see it on a lot of photos. You can see game at Daan Viljoen or visit the Heroe’s Acre or the Independence Memorial Museum. Do yourself a favour and have lunch or dinner at Joe’s Beerhouse. This is an iconic place in Windhoek. Windhoek is the gateway to wherever you want to go in Namibia. The city has big malls and lots of camping and 4x4 shops. The biggest airport, Hosea Kutako, is a mere 45km outside of Windhoek. A number of tourists fly into Windhoek and then rent travelling and camping gear to explore the country.  

Filling stations: There are filling stations at every town between these two towns.

Day 5

Depart: Windhoek

Destination:  Roy’s Rest Camp, Grootfontein.

Distance: 518 km

Accommodation: We stayed at the famous Roy’s Rest Camp. Roy’s camp is on the B8, 55km north of Grootfontein on your way to Rundu. This is a delightful camp. It is a rustic camp and very well maintained. You can watch the bush babies at the bar area and enjoy real ”boerekos” at the restaurant. All in all, a great place to camp and stay over.

Attractions: The Hoba meteorite is only 25 km from Grootfontein. It is the largest known intact meteorite.

Filling Stations: There are filling stations on a regular basis at all the towns on your way to Grootfontein.

Stock-up: Between Windhoek and Grootfontein you can stock up at Okahandja and Otjiwarongo. All the towns, including Grootfontein have good butcheries as well.

Day 6 & 7

Depart: Roy,s Rest Camp

Destination: Tsumkwe.

Distance: 221 km

Accommodation: We camped at Tsumkwe lodge. This is another rustic lodge and campsite.

Attractions:  We ventured into the Khaudum National Park, a very remote part of Namibia. That was worthwhile. We saw a lot of game and enjoyed it thoroughly. It is advisable not to venture into the Khaudum on your own. Rather make sure that you have a convoy of at least two cars. You will have to pay an entrance fee at the entrance gate.

Tsumkwe is the capital of the San people. You can learn from their lifestyle, history and culture at the Living Hunters Museum.

Filling Stations: You can fill up at Tsumkwe

Stock-up: Tsumkwe has a general dealer with basic supplies.

Day 8 & 9

Depart: Tsumkwe

Destination:  Halali  Restcamp, Etosha.

Distance: 512 km

Attractions: Halali is a campsite in the Etosha national park. It is part of NWR. This is great for game viewing. Etosha is home to 4 of the big five.  Halali have a restaurant, swimming pool, shop and waterhole and campsites. You can make use of the option of guided game drives or do your own game drive in the park. If you prefer, you can sit at the waterhole all day long and see a lot of game.  We saw rhinos at the waterhole!

Filling Station: There is petrol and diesel available in the camp.

Stock-up: Tsumeb has a good SPAR and there are general dealers and a butchery on Grootfontein.

There is a shop with basic food supplies in Halali. You can buy fire wood and ice from the shop. 

Day 10

Depart: Halali

Destination: Taleni Etosha Village.

Distance:91 km

Accommodation:  Taleni Etosha Village is just outside the Anderson gate of Etosha. The drive there serve as a game viewing drive. We camped at private campsites outside the park. The campsites have private ablutions. There is a restaurant, bar and pool on the premises. Game roam around freely at the campsites. There are a lot of options available in that area. You can opt to camp inside the park at Okaukuejo. This camp is famous for its beautiful and big waterhole. The waterhole is frequently visited by elephant and rhinos and a variety of game. Another option would be Gondwana Etosha Safari Campsite. We stayed at Eldorado before. It is on a private farm, close to the Anderson gate of Etosha. It is a lovely place to camp, and they also have a few specimens of the cat family on the farm. The food is to die for.

Filling Stations: Okakuejo, the camp inside the Etosha have fuel available. Just outside Etosha, at the Etosha Trading Post is a fuel station. They can fix tires.

Stock-up: Okakuejo has a shop with basic supplies. Outside of the park on the left-hand side is Etosha Trading Post. The shop at this trading post is better stocked than the shop in the park.

Day 11

Depart: Taleni Etosha

Destination:  Messum crater – wild camping

Distance: More or less 420 km

Attractions: We drove to the town of Uis. On our way there we stopped for breakfast at the famous Outjo bakery. We never drive pass this bakery and has been eating there since I can remember.

From Uis we drove on gravel road and then commence on tracks into the crater. We did wild camping. What a stunning experience. Again, it is recommended to be more than one car. You will need a permit to enter the area. This you can obtain from the office in Hentiesbay. You can get it by email. Contact the office of the Ministry of Environment and Tourism. Ask for a permit to enter the Dorob National Park. You do not need to pay any entrance fees and there is not an official “gate” A good GPS is essential unless you now the area extremely well.

Filling Station: The last filling station would be in Uis and then only in Henties Bay. Make sure you do not get stuck without fuel.

Stock-up: At Uis is a shop where you can buy basic food stuff.

Day 12 & 13 & 14

Depart: Messum crater

Destination:  Swakopmund.

Distance: More or less 200km

Accommodation:  In Swakopmund we always stay at Alte Brucke. This is a very well-organized, well-maintained camp. Each campsite has private ablutions and grass cover. This is with in walking distance of the town centre. There are a lot of other options available, varying from up-market hotels to B&B’s and camping. We prefer Alte Brucke and was never disappointed. Besides camping, they have self-catering chalets. You can have meals at the restaurant on the premises.

Attractions: The to do list in Swakopmund is endless. This is a real holiday town with top notch restaurants and coffee shops. You can do quad biking, camel riding, 4 x4 on the dunes, catamaran tours, seal island tours, surfing, fishing, golfing, the list just go on and on and on. You can spend a week here. Do go climb Dune 7.

Filling Stations: You can have your pick of filling stations. Swakopmund is a big town.

Stock-up: There are big malls and shops and butcheries in Swakopmund. You can make your choice.

Day 15

Depart: Swakopmund

Destination:  Taleni Sossus Oasis.

Distance: 347 km

Accommodation: This time round, we stayed at Taleni Sossus Oasis. This is a private camp just outside the entrance gate to Sesriem campsite. Taleni Sossus has private campsites, each with it’s own private ablutions (hot water showers and flush toilets) You can relax in the pool and get some basic supplies and WiFi at the shop.

Sesriem campsite is a good alternative. This is a NWR camp and inside the park, you pay an entrance fee. You also  pay separately for the campsite. This gives you access to Sossusvlei, Sesriem canyon and Deadvlei. Because you stay inside the park, you can depart long before they open the gates to the other tourists. You can relax at the pool or have a refreshing drink at the bar area. Or just enjoy the amazing views of the desert.

Attractions: This is a fairly good gravel road and make sure to stop at Solitaire for Apfelstrudel. Solitaire is world famous for its bakery and specifically the apfelstrudel. Moose McGregor would serve giant slices of this apple pie to tired tourists. It is almost compulsory to stop and enjoy the tasty offerings.

Do not forget to walk down the Sesriem canyon. It is a short drive or walk from the reception area and is definitely something to see. Drive to sossuvlei. It is a tar road up to about 5 km from the vlei. Then you need a 4x4 or make use of the transport provided. Dead tree island is a short walk over a couple of dunes and gives you great photo opportunities. This is a beautiful place to see. Climb big Daddy, the tallest dune in the Sossusvlei area. At 325m, it gives you definite bragging rights.

You may just see the odd oryx or springbuck on your way there or back. Stop at Dune 45, 45 km from the camp, and climb the dune.

Filling stations: You can fill up in the camp at Sesriem or outside at Taleni Sossus Oasis. Solitaire has a garage with fuel and a tyre repair shop.

Stock-up: The shop at Soitaire has basic supplies and the shop at the Sossus Oasis also has some supplies.

Day 16

Depart: Taleni Sossus Oasis

Destination:  Klein Aus Vista.

Distance: 382 km

Accommodation: We stayed at Klein Aus Vista. Klein Aus Vista is well known campsite in the southern region of Namibia. The camp is part of the Gondwana group. It is outside the small town of Aus. The camp offer big camping sites and good and clean ablutions with hot water showers and flush toilets. The restaurant offer good food and enjoy a drink at the bar while you admire the sunset.

A good alternative is the Aus Haven. It is in town and right opposite a garage and a general dealer. The ablutions are spacious and clean with hot showers.  They also offer a few campsites with private ablutions.

Attractions:

On the way from Sossusvlei  to Aus, we stopped at Helmeringhausen. This is a “one horse” town, but the hotel is worth a visit. We think this is the best apple pie in Namibia!

From Aus you can drive to Kolmanskop, the famous ghost town near Luderitz. It is worthwhile to go on a guided tour through the town. We were amazed with the detailed and meticulous manner this town was laid out many years ago. You can take photos of the famous bowling lane and see for your self how the desert is claiming it’s territory back.

With a little bit of luck, you can see the wild horses of the Namib desert on your way to Kolmanskop.  

Filling stations: Helmeringhausen have diesel and petrol and you can fill up in Aus.

Stock-up: Both Aus and Helmeringhausen has a general dealer. They sell meat and basic supplies.

Day 17

Depart: Klein Aus Vista

Destination: Canyon Roadhouse.

Distance: 283 km

Accommodation: This is an absolute favourite place for us. We love the tongue in the cheek Roadhouse restaurant and the open vistas is amazing. The ablutions are modern and well maintained and the staff very friendly. We will make an effort to stay here. Make sure to eat a light meal at the roadhouse.

Attractions: Hobas, the entrance to the Fish River canyon is 26 km from Canyon Roadhouse. Fish River canyon is the second largest canyon in the world. There are great lookout points, and it is popular amongst the hiking community. On your way you might see some wildlife. An entrance fee is payable at Hobas.

Ai-Ais hot springs is 80 km from Canyon Lodge.

Filling Station: You can fill up at Canyon Roadhouse.

Stock-up: You can buy firewood from the curioshop at Canyon Lodge

Day 18

Depart: Canyon Roadhouse

Destination:  Cape Town.

Distance: 891 km

This is a long stretch and we started early. We had a smooth border crossing and we were thankful for an amazing trip.